Germany has St Pauli, Spain has Rayo Vallecano; politics and sport shouldn’t mix but when they do, it isn’t all bad! In fact, it’s pretty darn good. Rayo Vallecano are Spain’s hipster club. It’s about inclusivity; this was the first Spanish club to have a female president. A visit to the southern Madrid suburb of Vallecas means you can be yourself. Campo de Futbol de Vallecas, Real’s home stadium, is as close to your idea of an ‘traditional’ football ground as you will get. The long and short sides are close to the pitch; no running track here. Good old-fashioned ‘crowd on top of the players’ football. Vallecas is a ‘working’ suburb of Madrid. If you want to escape the tourist traps, this is where you find the authentic capital of Spain. The bars, cafes and restaurants are full of locals who won’t bat an eyelid at your presence. But if you want the trappings, it’s twenty minutes from the centre. It’s called the best of both worlds.
